Fasting and Feasting
In Morocco every Ramadan there is an organized charitable effort to ensure that everyone who needs it is provided with iftar(after the fast) and suhur(before the fast) throughout the month. Fasting sensitizes to the hunger of the poor and reminds us to care for others. Once as the sun was setting and we hurried lost, through the back lanes of Marrakesh, traders and residents brought out steaming bowls of soup, and invited us to break fast with them. This is the soup that is served every night of Ramadan in mosques, homes and 'soup kitchens':
Harira
- 1lb(500g) lamb in small pieces
- 2/3 stalks of celery
- 2 onions, chopped
- bunch of parsley chopped
- 2lbs(1kg) tomatoes, chopped
- 1 teaspoon each, cinnamon, and turmeric
- half teaspoon ginger
- salt and pepper
- olive oil
- 6oz (200g) lentils
- 1 tin chickpeas (cooked)
- a handful of vermicelli
- 2 eggs
- 1 small lemon
Stir fry lamb with spices, celery, onion and parsley in large pot for a few minutes. Add tomato flesh, cook for ten to fifteen minutes. Season.
Add tomato juice water and lentils. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer for two hours.
Prior to serving add vermicelli and chickpeas and simmer until ready.
Mix eggs with lemon juice and stir this mixture slowly into warm soup ( to cook but not curdle eggs).
Season and serve.
Many Christians in the middle-eastern churches observe the fasts of Lent and Advent more robustly than is usual in the west- often keeping to a vegan diet. On Christmas Eve before the vigil, at a convent high in the mountains of Syria- it was even snowing- the sisters shared with us a simple meal of spinach and potatoes:
Wash and cook 1lb(500g) fresh spinach in a little water. Drain. Chop when cool. Meanwhile saute two finely-chopped onions in olive oil until they are golden. Keep some fried onions aside. With the rest of onions in the pan mix the juice of one lemon, a chopped clove of garlic and seasoning. Pour on spinach. When cold mix in remaining fried onions. Serve with warm khubz or pitta bread, boiled potatoes with cumin and, if allowed, plain yoghurt.
For the feast:
Luqeimat
This dish is known throughout the middle east- from Greece to the Persian Gulf and beyond, a simple core recipe that has adapted itself to local produce and conditions. Children throughout the region look forward to eating Zalabia or Luqeimat al-Qadi on the nights of Ramadan and in particular on Eid day itself. The following is a Persian Gulf or Arabian version, where date syrup is used instead of the flavoured sugar syrup used in Mediterranean countries- it is perhaps a little healthier and not quite so sweet!
- One jar of date syrup or 'dibs'
- 1lb(500g) plain flour
- 1sachet dried yeast
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- half pint milk
- half pint water
Put Date syrup in fridge.
Put yeast with sugar in bowl. Add a cup of tepid (blood heat) water. Test by sticking your finger in- it should be warm but comfortable. Leave yeast mixture to froth.
Meanwhile sieve flour into large bowl and keep in a warm place.
When yeast mixture is frothy pour into flour and add rest of water and milk. Mix thoroughly. It should have a thick liquid constituency like milkshake or pancake mixture - if it is too thick add a little more warmed water.
Cover with a clean cloth and leave in a warm place (airing cupboard, warm kitchen) for one hour. Beat thoroughly.
Repeat above twice or thrice.
Put oil in saucepan to a depth of at least 2 ins (5cm). Heat.
When oil is almost smoking hot, with a teaspoon or fingers drop balls or blobs of batter into oil. (It can help to dip fingers or spoon into cold water before each one)
As each ball rises to surface and is golden-coloured remove it from oil with slotted spoon, dry on kitchen paper and plunge in a bowl of the cold dibs syrup.
Remove to serving dish.
When enough balls or luqeimat are ready, pour more syrup over them and if wished, sprinkle with cinnamon.
Christmas Cake
Britain's culinary gift to the world must surely be the cake and none so rich in it ingredients - and its associations as the large fruit cake prepared for Christmas.
Coming home from school one afternoon in November I would find my mother stirring the ingredients into large bowls; she always made several cakes of various sizes for assorted maiden aunts, friends and others who would be absent at Christmas time.
It would already be dark outside but the bright kitchen scented with dried fruit and spice felt like the heart of warmth and happiness in the world.
A large fruit cake will satisfy a lot of people: I am making one to offer to callers at Eid for a large Gulf family this year.
There are plenty of recipes available. To replace alcohol I recommend a fresh fruit juice of your choice, for example orange, lemon, red grape juice or a combination work very well.
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